July 4th, 2014, Pacific Ocean, Costa Rica It’s early morning, and already it’s been a great day. I’ve just ridden a massive wave, paddled back out through the surf, and am sitting on my board resting and waiting for the next one. On his board nearby sits Ru Hill, the founder of Surf Simply, known as the best surf school in the world. He’s been my instructor all week. As I scan the horizon for incoming waves, the sense of elation that I feel from my last wave mixes with a feeling of… I’m not quite sure. Sadness? Regret? Astonishment? Relief? You see, in the past week I’ve learned more about surfing than I had in the previous ten years of trying. I’ve wasted a lot of time, and a lot of effort. Surfing is a curious thing. It’s a truly honest sport. It’s what skiing might be… read more »
